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The alarm rang at 7:30, we have not woken up that early in a long time. We
put away a lot of stuff and moved the outboard from the dingy to the rail mount.
Our neighbor J. T. from Jolly Mon was rowing his dog ashore, he ran out of
outboard gas yesterday. He came over and we talked for a while. He left Kentucky
last summer and is living aboard. He plans to re-provision in Marsh Harbor in a
few days also. About 9 we dropped the mooring and motored out. A large motor
yacht that had been at the dock overnight went thru the channel just before us.
The wind was NNW at 10 Kt and we had a nice motor North. There was not much
traffic, just a few fishing boats. A large motor yacht was anchored off Matt
Lowe’s Cay and on the N side of Marsh Harbor a number of small sailing dingys
were having a race. In the harbor we were surprised by how few boats were at
anchor. There were more docks and they seemed to be packed but there was lots of
room to anchor. I removed the mechanism that holds the outboard engine in the
raised position since it was corroded and not working properly, it jammed and
prevented the engine from going up or down. Fortunately it unscrewed easily. We
dingied in and walked around the town. There were a number of new shops. We
stopped in one grocery store and bought ice cream bars. At another one we found
a fly swatter. We had been looking for one since Miami. On the way back to the
boat we bought ice for the icebox. After a nap we headed in to the Conch Inn
again and had dinner at the restaurant which now has an Italian motif. The food
was excellent, I had grouper with tomato and spices and potatoes and onions.
Jill had the lasagna. We took a walk after dinner and then returned to the boat.
The wind was light from the NE and we should have a quiet evening.
8 AM We got up early - even before that 7030 alarm went off :). J.T. from "Jolly Mon" came to visit as we were getting ready to leave. He says he's been here since September. He got laid off from an engineering job in Louisville, KY and got a divorce. He says the house on North Beach is Pete Johnston's. I took a picture as we are leaving of the spot where we anchored. Cool temp (70°) with lots of sun. The sea is calm.
Time to put lotion on my captain :).
Evening: We arrived into Marsh harbor right before lunch (Beans and Rice). Lots of room because there are more docks and marinas than 3 years ago. We walked around exploring. Most businesses will be closed tomorrow. Have to wait until Monday to wash. We brought ice to the boat and rested a while - then we went to eat at the Conch Inn - which is now an Italian style restaurant. I had lasagna and Rich had the grouper. I had a desert of raspberry cheese cake - delicious. We walked to check out the Laundromat - Nice BIG - we can dingy in to it - $2 a load... But can't wash till Monday.
We can see the "castle in the sky" from here. It's a restaurant now. Also not open till Monday. I need to try to get my blood work done here. Rich wants to find a wholesale food lace. WE FOUND A FLY SWATTER!!
We were really tired from the walk and the strenuous sail yesterday so we
slept late and then laid around the cockpit until noon. The wind was E to ESE at
10-15 Kt and pleasantly cool. We took stock of the remaining supplies and
decided what we needed to buy to restock the boat. We figured $500 at the
wholesale produce store and a similar amount at the regular grocery store. We
dingied in to Triple J Marina and tied to the dock behind the Laundromat. Nobody
was around so we walked W down the road next to the harbor. We walked passed the
government dock and then around to a small take-out restaurant. The menu had
goat tongue and other strange items so we just quenched our thirst with beer and
then walked on the Dolphin dinner. Most stores were closed but we stopped at a
small grocery store and bought a Miami Harold for Friday for $2.50. We were
suffering from news withdrawal and the lady at the cash register said the news
was always the same so we did not need an up to date paper. She also said that
they run the store at The Conch Inn Resort and that it was quiet because the
season had not started yet but in a few weeks the harbor would be stuffed and
things would be hopping.. It was about 2 PM and we were the only customers. I
had the Dolphin burger which is a hamburger with sautéed mushrooms and onions.
Jill had a BLT which had lots and lots of bacon. Both were very tasty. We asked
for a phone book and looked up the wholesale dealers and clinics but could not
find a refrigeration service. We went back to the boat and read the paper for
the rest of the afternoon and at 6:30 left for the Steak-out at the Jib Room on
the N shore of the harbor. The marina there is almost full and lots of dingys
followed us to their dock. Behind the dinning room the cook was putting mounds
of thick steaks on a large grill. We bought tickets and drinks and walked the
dock for a while. When we returned to the dinning room people were lining up at
the grill so we ordered another round, found a nice table on the second floor
overlooking the harbor and joined the line. We each got a bowl of salad, a baked
potato, roll and a huge steak. We could not see the sun set from this side of
the harbor but we watched the anchorage get dark and the lights of the city come
on as we ate our juicy steaks. We had not had steaks since the Keys and that
made them doubly good. After dinner we took a short walk around and then found
the phone to call home. We forgot a flashlight so we made our way carefully back
to the boat. Jill slipped getting into the dingy and landed on the inflatable
seat but no damage.
Walked all over Marsh Harbor. We went into one little Bahamian restaurant that served lambs tongue and I lost my appetite. We went and had a delicious lunch at Flippers. Located all important land marks - Delicious supper -
Sorted out laundry. Looks a lot bigger than expected :). Made grocery lists for three months. Went to Steak Night at the huge yellow Marsh Harbor Inn / Marina. Wow what a beautiful steak we had - live music - all up stairs - super view of the whole harbor - came back after dark... Also after I went head first into the dingy. ha, ha. We called Liz and Mum and Dad.
The SE wind died completely and we woke to a complete calm. We woke up fairly
early at 8 AM and I took the dingy in to look for a slip. I wanted to go to the
Harbor View Marina because the Laundromat was right there. They had an opening
and put us in slip number 12. I went back to the boat and we prepared lines and
fenders an pulled up anchor. The anchor was caked in mud and I only got some of
it off. Sailors from the neighboring boats came out and helped us tie up in self
defense. The wind was light from the ESE and we had an easy time pulling into
the dock. Our neighbors from Toronto, Michelle and Hans pulled in earlier in the
morning and are stocking up to return to the states. Several others are also
going back. Some talked about the approaching front and expect the harbor to
fill up as it gets closer but it is expected to be mild. After securing the boat
and filling out the paperwork we break out the hose and wash off the accumulated
layers of salt and dirt from the boat and also the dingy. It is hot work and I
desperately need a shower. I pack shower stuff and head off but the water just
trickles out of the faucet and then stops completely. I talk to the dock manager
Hubert Bethel and he looks at the cistern, opens a valve and says the water will
be back in a few minutes. After shaving and trying to trim my beard (either the
shaver is gunked up or the voltage is low) there still is no water. I go back
out and the dock master and his assistant are running around trying to prime the
water pump. They finally get the situation under control and after a few minutes
there is enough pressure to run the showers. It is worth the wait, I feel almost
human again after getting rid of several layers of dirt. I return to the boat
and Jill goes for a shower and then we both head to Mango’s for lunch. The
restaurant an open air affair and built on stilts over the harbor just SE of our
slip. As we walked in the largest curly tail lizard I have ever seen walked
across the floor as if it owned the place. Little birds also flew in and hopped
around the floor looking for scraps. The dockmaster is trying to get in touch
with the refrigeration expert Sean Nixon to look at our failing Seafrost
refrigerator. He has called several times and left messages but Sean appears to
be away. After lunch we walk to Solomon’s Wholesale to see what it is like. They
deliver and take plastic and operates just like Costco but on a smaller scale.
They get their supplies from Sam’s. The prices are good for the Bahamas and it
appears that we will be able to eat for the rest of our voyage. We take notes on
what is available and will return tomorrow to order our food. We walk out the
main road going S and stop at the post office to pick up stamps and verify that
General Delivery mail can be picked up there. Further S we stop a the clinic so
Jill can get a blood test and we walk further S looking for Abaco Wholesale but
do not find it. We stop on the way back at the Abaco Market and buy a few items
that we do not want in bulk. This is a slightly smaller food store than the
Golden Harvest store which is closer to our dock. The next stop is Sawyers which
sells soft drinks by the case. We pick out 10 different drinks and order a case
of each but they don’t take plastic and we have only $2 left after the purchases
at the grocery store. We will come back tomorrow with travelers checks and they
will deliver the cans to the dock. The day is hot and we are very tired when we
finally return to the boat. I get another block of ice and then we both collapse
and rest until 7 when we get enough energy to go looking for dinner. Actually we
can smell dinner as lovely fragrances waft into the boat from Mango’s just up
wind of us. We try across the street at Wally’s but it is closed on Monday so we
re-cross the street and go to the Tiki Hut just W of our dock. this is a floating
restaurant and bar and serves great food. We get to watch the sun set and the
lights of the harbor come on. We make it back to the boat at 8:45 and prepare
for a hard day of spending and loading tomorrow.
We window shopped and inquired about delivery of 10 cases of sodas / juices and 3 months worth of food. The soda place is Sawyer's. We went to Solomon Brothers for "whole sale" of food supplies. They had almost everything on our list! It's like a small Costco's - clean and well packages. A manager there says a fellow who delivers will be there in the AM. Prices are in line with what we expected. Which isn't Costco Ha. "Shopping in paradise". Called Mum - She is sending us mail "General delivery".
We stopped at Dr. Lundy's "Family Clinic" and I had a CBC and diff done. Peggy drew the blood. They will send it to Quest Diagnostics, 1300 E Newport Center, Deerfield Beach, FL 33442, (954) 481-3500. I'll send post cards to DR. Melrose and Siegel so they can retrieve the results.
We got started early to try to get everything ordered and delivered today. Solomon’s opened at 8:30 and when we got up at 8 there was a big dark cloud just W of us. It passed without raining but another formed. We decided to chance it and took our hats for rain gear and set out. We started with a large flat cart at Solomon’s and half way thru had it stacked to overflowing. We got an additional giant size shopping cart and finished with it stuffed to the gills. At the checkout line they were very efficient and quickly had our bill totaled up. Then we gave them the charge card. There is a sign over the checkout lanes telling us to expect long delays for credit card approval. We waited about 15 minutes. Another lady with less stuff was also waiting for credit approval. Finally the manager said there was some problem with the automated phone approval system and called in for credit approval. The cost of this mountain of food was close to my original estimate, $513 vs. $500. We took the carts to the shipping department and they said they would box everything up and give us a ride back to the marina. In the mean time we walked to the Sawyers Soft Drinks and ordered 10 cases of assorted cans for $122. We meet our neighbors Michelle and Hans there. They were getting 4 cases. Sawyers said they would try to deliver before noon. We returned to Solomon’s and loaded the food in the back of their van and the driver took us back to the marina. We loaded everything on to the dock cart except for 2 boxes which Jill carried. The wheels were bowing out but we made it to the boat without loosing anything. We piled everything on top of the boat and then carried it below. Half way thru unpacking and sorting thru the piles of food, Sean Nixon the refrigeration man showed up so we made room for him and took the stairs apart. He hooked his equipment up and I started the engine. After fooling around with it for a while and reading the manual he got it working properly. We finished packing the food away in all sorts of lockers, I just don’t know where we will find room to put the drinks. I thought I heard somebody call ‘Phoenix’ and I stuck my head up but could not see or hear anybody. It is around noon and we are tired and hungry from our exertions so we head out to lunch but find the soft drinks piled up at the office so we load them on the dock cart with the help of the local dock boy, a Haitian who does not seem to speak much English but hangs around to help and earn a few bucks. He apparently walked around the dock earlier calling for us. He hands the cases to Jill on the deck who passes them thru the center hatch and I stack them up on the table. We finish this task quickly and headed back out to lunch. We walked E to the Snack Shack which is a new establishment E of the Conch Inn. They have a small building that serves food, another with a gift shop and a third with the restrooms. There are several picnic tables with roofs over them for shade. We ordered sandwiches and sodas and browsed the gift shop until they were ready. After lunch Jill took the dirty cloths to the Laundromat while I stowed the soft drinks. The dock manager said he would take our empty propane tank to the Corner Value store to fill it and we could pick it up the next day. When all that work was done we were both very tired. We took showers and rested for a few hours. One should not work this hard in the Bahamas, it should be illegal. Around dusk we set off to dinner at Wally’s which is just across the street. It is in a large 2 story house with a nicely landscaped front yard. The local drink is the Wally Special which has 4 kinds of rum, very potent. The food was excellent but my Bahamian smothered grouper was a little on the spicy side. We returned to the boat and collapsed, tired but grateful for getting so much done.
Bought 3 months worth of provisions at Solomon Brothers. (Wall Mart owners) They delivered it with a van and brought us back to the boat. There are carts here so we got it all aboard in one huge trip. We spent $513. We also went to Sawyers Sodas and bought 10 cases. They delivered that in the after noon. The fellow who brought it is from Haiti and he seemed not to be able to read. He walked back and forth and didn't come to the boat. We saw him sitting by the Marina office door with tall stacks of cans. So we inquired and sure enough it was for us! A few cases were for our next door neighbors Hans and Michelle. We went to the Snack Shack after we got the cans unloaded on the boat. I had an egg and bacon sandwich to satisfy my hunger for breakfast food. After lunch we loaded up a big load of laundry - 5 large machines and went to the nice laundry-mat they have here. Hubert was nice enough to give me a token when one dryer worked weakly. His mom - in - law had a tizzy when she emptied the washer dryer $ and found token from somewhere else. The machines are $2 a load here. They tell me that at Turtle Cay they are $3.50! I have started to cut 4" squares of my old cloths to make Bailey a quilt :). We went to Wally's (Fine Dining) for supper. I had turtle steak. It was delicious. Rich had a chocolate Sunday for dessert. I had a margarita that was like 2! He drank their "special". I heard someone say it was 4 kinds of rum. I tasted it and was surprised that it tasted like 'punch'. There is a boutique in Wally's. Lovely items - modestly expensive. It's a huge mansion converted into a restaurant - nice atmosphere :).
In the morning I went on deck and saw the dock manager peddling his bike down the dock carrying our propane tank, he had picked it up also and saved us a walk to town. I spent the morning transferring fuel from the cans to the main tank and then picking up more fuel and also gas for the outboard. After packing everything away again I walked to the Triple J marine store and found a conch hammer and a book written by a teacher about local life in the ‘40s. Then we started on another hike. We went to Flippers again for lunch and then to the doctors office but Jill's test was not back yet, then to the Post Office but no package for us yet. We stopped at several hardware stores and finally found a conch basher along with several other items. We stopped a the grocery store for a few more items and finally at the liquor store for beer and rum. We barely made it back to the boat with this load. After resting for an hour we wanted to walk to the Castle Cafe for happy hour which the sign said was from 5 to 7 so at 4:30 we set out. It did not take long to get close to it, we could see it on top of a hill but we had to climb quite a ways to finally get there. The view across the banks from up there is spectacular. they have a number of tables set up on a porch. We read the menu but the lady informed us that they were not serving food anymore today and they were not allowed to have happy hour anymore, local regulations. She said they had quite a fight just to stay open. We had rum and cokes and Jill ordered carrot cake and we took in the magnificent scenery. I asked about the original road they had blasted and she pointed us in the right direction. We walked down this road which winds down the S side of the hill and must be very close to what it originally looked like. It was still early so we returned to the boat to relax for a while and then went across the street to Sapodillas for dinner. This is an open air restaurant with the tables under canopies and surrounded by trees. The local rum drink was the Willy Dilly which was very good. Fortunately the dock was just across the road and we made it back OK.
Time is flying by. I woke up with a little sore throat. I have Alka-Seltzer cold formula :). I took my vitamins too :). Rich is filtering the diesel fuel into the tank. We took the cans and got more diesel and gas right here at the dock. Barbara and Hubert are very helpful - Hubert took our bottle gas tanks to get it filled and then delivered it back to us!
There is a native lady making dolls and purses and hats on a float near shore. She has about a 7 - 8month old with here named Robin. Here prices are $6 - $25. She also braids hair with beads.
Michelle and Hans, next to us at the docks are from Canada. They live on their boat and go to Canada for 3 months in the summer.
Today we decided to take care of the remaining tasks. The sky was cloudy and the wind had shifted to the S and was 15-20 with stronger gusts. Periodically during the day it appeared ready to rain but then it would clear a little and the sun would shine. It never did rain. We loaded the icebox with drinks and bought ice and ran the engine for a while to charge the system. It worked OK but initially the high pressure cutoff would activate. We cleaned and filled the water tanks and then went to lunch at Mango’s. This restaurant is just 200’ S of us on the waterfront and built on pilings over the water. We have a great view of it form the cockpit but with the wind coming from the S we get the smell of food cooking all day long and by noon we were salivating heavily. After lunch we walked to the small grocery at the Conch Inn to start collecting fresh provisions. Then we walked to the doctors office for Jill's blood test results, good blood, and then the post office, no mail and finally to the grocery store to finish shopping and buy the latest Time magazine. We returned to the boat with plenty of time for a rest and a rum drink before dinner. We walked to the Batelco office to phone home at 8 PM. There were still people in line to use the phones at this hour. Then we walked to the Bistro at the Conch Inn for dinner and staggered back to the boat.
Day of Celebration! My CBC with diff came back WNL! Yea...
We watched clouds pass over as we walked to the various Marsh Harbor stores for last minute supplies. Bread, cheeses, luncheon meats. We found a great metal conch 'masher' at a small department store yesterday. Our mail from Mom and Dad hasn't arrived yet but the P.O. said they will hold it for 8 weeks.
Rich got the "Island Teacher". It's a short story about an English teacher who was here from '48 - '53.
It rained for a while around dawn, the first real rain we have had in quite a while. The wind is blowing strong from the SW. At 8 we turned on the VHF to channel 68 and at 8:15 the cruisers net came on. They announce the weather conditions and then let local restaurants and businesses make announcements of the daily specials and hours and sea conditions at their establishments. We learn that the Castle Cafe will be closed today because of the high winds, it is all out doors. We heard about another restaurant a mile W of the government docks overlooking the bay. They have a mail call where they ask for people who are leaving who will take unsealed flat stamped mail back to the states. They announce several establishments that are holding mail or email for various boats and have an open mike period where one boat can get in touch with another. After getting ice I decided the weather was too bleak to set out today. The cold front is still W of us and we will sit it out until it passes. At the next dock to the W, Triple J there is a tug and a large barge with a shovel and caterpillar. They are dredging the area around the docks. The water was crystal clear before they started and is now milky white. Around noon we decided to walk to the restaurant we heard about on the cruisers net. We had walked as far as the government dock before but turned back before getting to the Yacht Haven Marina. We walked passed and continued to Dundas which is a small village. We found the restaurant and had a nice lunch there. Several other boat people were there and the people from 2 boats S of us came in their dingy. The point of land just N of the restaurant is being developed into home sites, one is already built. There seems to be a lot of construction in the area. We walked a little further into town to see what a string of flags over the road was. It was for a new gas station. On the way back to the boat a line of heavier clouds blew over and it started to rain so we ducked into a bank and sat and read their magazines for a while before continuing to the post office but no mail yet. We returned to the boat and soon it was raining there. It rained for most of the rest of the afternoon with some lightning also. We played cards and ate dinner on the boat. The rain stopped at dusk and the wind also dropped. Hopefully tomorrow will be a better day.
8:15 AM Listening to "Net for Boaters"... Some messages between boats, announcements - Nippers sells "Nipper drinks", Great Guana has ribs, Yahoos is open on Lubbers Quarters, Castle Cafe is closed due to high winds. We awoke to rain. It's 0840 and the sun is already out. (Shawn Nixon fixed our frig).
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